After three years as a salary-woman, I never fully felt that I digested my father’s death. I quit my job in April 2009 and set off to China and Europe. These are excerpts from the journal that I took with me to Beijing, Copenhagen and parts of Italy.
Part I: The Look of (Unconditional) Love
Part II: Humiliated in Tokyo While Naked
Part III: Pink Phlegm Bottle
Part IV: The Move
Part V: The Right Things
CommentIt felt like a day of rebellion. August 24.
Well, not really, because we chose it for the fact that it was the closest “Tai-an Day” (Day of luck) since we got engaged. It was calculated, but the two of us snuck out on a Monday morning at 9:00am to the Setagaya city office to get married. We weren’t going to a chapel, we were going to the Japanese equivalent of City Hall.
The Japanese separate the civil ceremony from their wedding, therefore, in order to officially be deemed married, you must visit the ward office and process your papers.
It was not how I imagined my wedding day. But then again, I had never imagined my wedding day. Or a life of marriage. But here I was, 28 and getting out of bed to get married… in Tokyo.
We rode the Setagaya tramway, one of only two surviving trams in Tokyo. Looking back, it was the best mode of transport to use to enter a new phase in my life. No cars, no trains, but a two-car tram.
We got off at the Shoin-Jinjamae station and walk down the sunny, lonely street lined with small teishoku and yaoya shops with shutters halfway open. A sharp right at the temple and a grey admin building greeted us.
After getting a number to get in line, just like the deli, we were called up to the Family Registry counter where birth, marriage and death is reported. We submitted our marriage application to the office person. Her face was pleasant and I could tell it was her first marriage application that day. I wondered what kind of face I would have seen in her if I was reporting my father’s death. We were asked to be seated again.
After 25 long minutes and a visit to the bathroom, we were called back to the window. “Congratulations! You’re married! Please apply your family seals here.” And that was that.
And there we were in front of the doors of city hall, two people, who grew on the opposite sides of the Pacific, facing a whole future ahead with nothing to say to each other at that moment.

I made this for a couple who got married last week.
Comment [1]The way a city takes out their trash is very telling of its people. Last month when I went home to visit my mom in Cupertino, California, in the heart of the Silicon Valley, I noticed that they no longer had to sort their recyclables. Everything goes into one bin. So their sorting task had dwindled to a total of two choices: trash or recyclables. This seemed like some sort of miracle, after years and years of sorting paper from plastic bottles from aluminum and glass. The idea of throwing everything into one bin seemed like a total no-no. Tuesday morning rolls around and I see the garbage collector in action – a huge, Wall-E type of truck four times the height of a Honda Civic. I knew I was away from America for too long when I was utterly mesmerized by the power and might of the garbage truck. A man comes around the side, fits a garbage can into an “arm” which hoists the can up over the truck and into the pile of recyclables the contents of the can go. In the process there are some loose receipts or flyers that fall out into the air, but no complaints, please, this is a modern miracle!
Trash day in Cupertino, California
A week later, I visited my sister in Berkeley, California, the heart of the bygone hippie era. I didn’t feel so out-of-the-loop when I saw that they still had to sort their recyclables. But I did notice that the little green compost bin (which Cupertino does not have) was taking in more than it used to – meat and biodegradable paper products such as tissues, paper towels, paper cups, etc. This little green compost bin is collected by the city of Berkeley. When a year ago, compost only took vegetable scraps, it has evolved rapidly and efficiently, careful not to discriminate against the omnivore’s diet.
In any case, both cities have a recyclables day and a garbage day. Simple enough.
Not so simple in Tokyo. I recently moved into my new neighborhood, where like all Tokyo neighborhoods, taking out the garbage is a job in itself. It requires an amazing memory or the task of posting idiot-proof reminders all over your house. Never mind that you have to sort your trash into three categories and 4 subcategries, each category is taken out on a different day. Please take a look at the chart for our neighborhood:
The pink area on the left indicates combustible items (burnable, yes the trash is burned here). Combustible items makes up most of the trash so it is taken out twice a week, Wednesdays and Saturdays. Until last year combustibles items used to not include plastics, which was quite a nightmare. But I don’t know what is worse – not having to sort your plastics from paper or knowing that in some burning facility there are mountains of plastics being burned every week.
The blue area refers to incombustible items (not burnable) including metals, metallic cans and glass. Since these items build up quite slowly, it is collected every second and fourth Tuesday of the month.
Finally on the right side, recyclables are listed, including newspapers, magazines, cardboard, bottles and aluminum cans which are all to be sorted seperately. Footnote – notice the plastic bottle illustration on the left. Residents must remove all paper labels and caps from plastic bottles, rinse them out and crush them before taking them out. Now notice the newspaper and magazine illustrations, these must be bound together with string.
Another footnote is that all garbage items must be taken out between the tiny window of 6 to 8am the morning of collection day. This morning I was cursing myself when I accidently slept in until 8:18am to find that the collector had come by in those 18 minutes I slept in. Cursing myself into shame, I calmed myself down by saying “at least they were combustible items, they’ll come for it again on Saturday.”
Finally, because there are no city-issued garbage cans in Tokyo, people leave their garbage curbside. This means that, bags and bags of all sizes are left on the curb vulnerable to scavengers – black crows. To avoid crows from pecking into trash bags, nets are thrown over the mountains of communal curbside trash. I never know who does it, but the nets are always promptly and neatly folded up by noontime.
Tokyo, Shibuya-ku
For each city it is clear that garbage is a social and cultural issue. When I heard about how my friend Kishi went to Bali and described to me their garbage system (burn all garbage in front of your houses on Sundays) it was clear to me that taking out the trash is something we deal with as citizens of this world.
Cupertino’s no-sort system is genius. It’s what the Silicon Valley does best – create systems. Finding solutions to make life more user-friendly is their schtick and I think they have succeeded.
Planning to put a zero-waste policy into motion in the near future, Berkeley is ahead of its game in progressive garbage systems. It’s more “Think Forward,” than “Think Different.” I can’t wait to see how far they will be when I move back next year.
Tokyo’s intricate garbage’s system displays the best qualities of its people. They all abide by its detailed, sometimes frustrating method that tests patience and cooperation, which is crucial when living in such a densely packed metropolis.
I will spend today figuring out how to come up with the best combination of trash cans for our new home.
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I stepped foot into an EB Games store for the first time in my life. I always knew it was “some place you get video games.” I could even remember the colors of the logo. Not only that, I even had the right premonition as to where it was located.
It was almost as if I was waiting for my friend Andi, living in Japan, to ask me to buy a new video game called Bionic Commando. I knew exactly where to go.
I was never into video games. Wait, that’s a lie, I played Super Mario Brothers and Duck Hunt in the late eighties. But it pretty much stopped there. Well, there was Tetris too. But the idea of life-like humans appearing in video games is almost as foreign and uninteresting to me as a stack of piled up utilities bills next to my laptop.
But for some reason the folks at EB Games were clever enough at branding their stores to permeate into my unconscious. How did I know that EB Games used the colors red, white and black? How did I have a hunch that it was probably next to that cell phone store?
Really, it’s scary and I’d like the folks at EB Games to tell me their secret.
Although I miss these traits of history once in a while, I am super ecstatic for my mother who finally got to realize her dream home. Plus, the comforts of modern interior are easy to get used to as a visitor – granite countertops for easy clean-up, and large, deep sink basins with just the right amount of water pressure.
But one part of the house has remained the same: the garage. As I pulled into the garage yesterday, it looked just as though I remembered it as a 12-year old. Sure there have been cabinets installed and it looks tidier, but the overall “look” has remained the same.
I haven’t hung out in a garage since moving to Tokyo and pulling into my mom’s garage yesterday brought back a sense of warmth.
As a kid my garage memories include spinning the washer, only to realize I had forgotten to add detergent. I also remember having makeshift band practices much to the chagrin of my mom and our neighbors. My prized eraser collection was also stowed in there and I’d sneak into the garage in the middle of the night a few times a year just to make sure it was still there. The garage was dark and uninviting but there were reasons to go there. And finally, when I first went off to college, I vividly remember my best friends Maria and Matt standing, then running with hands waving, as I pulled out of the garage.
So this is me, giving props to our garage and all the garages across suburban America that keep it real, house our dreams (guitars, power tools, beer), histories (photos, old furniture) and serve as the starting point of “getting away from it all.”
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Introductions and endings are less defined in my interactions here in Beijing. Yesterday I took a day-long tour with five other tourists who were visting Beijing from rural China. One couple in their seventies took me in for the day as if I were their adopted daughter. I met them in the minivan at 7:20 A.M. along with my tour guide.
“I thought you were Chinese. I might have spoken to you in Chinese if I met you on the street,” were Grandpa’s first words later translated to me as I introduced myself to the tour guide in English.
When we arrived to our first destination at the Summer Garden Palace, Grandma took my arm just above the elbow with her hand making sure I didn’t get hit by cars. This was my introduction to Grandma. She was very talkative to me after this, although I could not understand a wrod. Thereafter, I was in every one of their pictures. In front of the garden gate, in front of the crane monument, in front of the peace gate, in front of the longetivity stone… and more! About two 24-exposure rolls of films worth of more.
“Who’s this?” their real daughter may ask in two weeks. Although, she probably won’t even ask.
As the day came to a close and the minivan pulled into the hotel parking lot, I was bracing myself for a tearful goodbye. But all the bracing was a waste as just like any other stop, it was chaos followed by the tour guide hurriedly ushering those of us staying at the hotel to pile off quickly.
I caught a glimpse of Grandma and Grandpa as I shuffled around the minivan and turned around to see if they even cared that I had left. Both Grandma and Granpa were waving their arms ferociously through the glass window.
I teared up after all.
Chinese movies are oozing with drama, but what I sense is that in everyday life, there is a common acceptance of transience in Beijing. As a result, there seems to be less tension projected to each other personally. If there is, it’s released and fizzles into the air where it belongs.
We may meet in an hour or never again. This is the time we had. The end.